Gustav Lindenthal had a dream. He wanted to build a bridge across the lower Hudson River, connecting Manhattan with New Jersey. I've got a far more modest dream. I want to run across the Hudson River on one of the bridges that has subsequently been built.
On Wednesday, I set out from work in Poughkeepsie, New York, to run to and across the Mid-Hudson Bridge. I ran along a perimeter road to the northern edge of the plant site. I then cut through some condo complexes, to avoid having to run on US-9. Here in suburbia, roads don't seem to go through. They are just spider veins coming off the main artery. I come out onto the arterial at a Courtyard by Mariott. I'm pleased by how much strip running I have avoided. It is a warm day, with temperature already in the seventies. Running along a six lane commercial strip makes the heat more unpleasant.
I reach Locust Grove, the home of Samuel F.B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph. Just north of Locust Grove is the Poughkeepsie Rural Cemetery, where Matthew Vassar and thousands of other Hudson Valley residents make their permanent home. I lose the sidewalk at this point, but the grassy strip isn't bad for running.
Lindenthal was already a successful bridge builder when he came to New York City in 1885. He made his reputation in Pittsburgh, where he designed and supervised construction of bridges, including the Smithfield Street Bridge. Pittsburgh is a living primer of bridge construction. I don't know of a city with a denser collection of varied bridge designs. The Smithfield Street Bridge crosses the Monongahela River, connecting downtown Pittsburgh with "Sahside". This beautiful bridge is immediately recognizable with its lenticular trusses.
At the north end of the cemetery, US-9 becomes a limited access road. A small road goes off to the left, so I don't have to run on the nasty highway. The road brings me nowhere but to the main offices of Central Hudson Gas and Electric. I run to several dead ends, fearing this won't let out anywhere, forcing me back to 9. Finally I find an outlet, at the northwest corner of the campus. From here I run past several industrial sites and have good views of the train tracks which carry Metro North to Poughkeepsie, and Amtrak to Albany and points north and west.
In 1887, Lindenthal proposed a rail bridge connecting Hoboken, New Jersey with 23rd Street in Manhattan. By 1895, ground was broken, and work had begun on the anchorages. Shortly afterwards, the Pennsylvania Railroad pulled out of the financial arrangement. Advances in tunnel building technology, and cleaner burning locomotives, made a rail tunnel an attractive alternative. Having lost a major financier, construction of the bridge stopped.
I have no idea how to reach the Mid-Hudson Bridge, but I can see it from here. I have an excellent view of the west tower across the river. I run past several parks and condo communities, occasionally having to skirt the arterial.
In 1902, Lindenthal became Commissioner of Bridges for New York City, and had to focus his effort on the various East River projects. This period culminated with the opening of his Hell Gate Bridge in 1916. This was the world's longest steel arch bridge at the time, and carries rail traffic from Queens to Ward's Island, en route to Bronx, and New England.
Finally I reach the bridge. Unfortunately I am too close to the river, and run right underneath it. There's no way up, so I head north, east and back south. As I run underneath the bridge a second time, I have reached a point where climbing up to the bridge is physically possible, but still neither legal nor safe.
I hunt and peck for several more minutes. As I'm ready to give up and looking for any route south, I espy a well worn path that carries me behind a warehouse, and over and across route 9. This is my one last chance. I come to the major east-west arterial which has to bring me to the bridge approach.
The Hudson River, south of Albany was finally spanned, with the opening of the Bear Mountain Bridge in 1924. This ushered in an era of building ever longer suspension bridges across the Hudson River, and throughout North America. New York City and New Jersey were connected with the opening of the George Washington Bridge in 1931. The Mid-Hudson Bridge, connecting Poughkeepsie with Highland was dedicated by Governor Franklin Roosevelt in 1930.
As I see the bridge approach, I seem to be on the wrong side of the road. The south walkway is blocked by construction workers and equipment. I need to get to the north walkway. Downtown Poughkeepsie is horribly pedestrian hostile, but eventually I make my way across the road. As I approach the bridge, I see a bicyclist alighting, and take this as a good sign. I cross a ramp, and finally am climbing to the bridge.
It feels great to be up here on this elegant structure. I can see south to the fjord-like Hudson Highland region. As I reach the east tower, I also reach a locked gate and a sign reading "No Trespassing". Damn! What's the deal? How did the bicyclist get across? Did the bicyclist get across? What should I do? What can I do? I look north towards Hyde Park, look south to get one more view of the highlands, and head east, off the bridge.
While Lindenthal's former assistant, Othmar Amman, was building the George Washington Bridge, Lindenthal was still trying to get a mid-town bridge built. A span connecting 57th Street with West New York, New Jersey was supported by several important railroad companies, but it never received the necessary federal approval.
I re-cross the east-west arterial, live to tell about it, and head back south to work. I take a different, more direct route back. I misjudge exactly where I am, and spend a brief but unpleasant stretch on the limited access portion of 9. By contrast, the sidewalks of the six lane strip are luxurious. I cross 9 at Locust Grove, and head back through the condos. The run took 1:25:49. It only felt longer.
Lindenthal died in 1935, the same year a fourth span, the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, was opened across the Hudson River south of Albany. He never built his bridge across the Hudson, but his bridges shaped major cities and inspired future generations of bridge builders, runners and other dreamers.
Someday I'll run across Lindenthal's river. If not at the Mid-Hudson Bridge, somewhere else. If I don't do it, at least I know others will.
Steven Cangemi
3.5 miles north of the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge (which has no pedestrian
walkway)